A Trail Journal by Chef Glenn McAllister
我在阿巴拉契亚小径上走了1001英里，在格鲁吉亚和西弗吉尼亚州之间，七年超过七年。在路上的第一个晚上，我坐在棕色的煤渣块上用Eddie脱掉Eddie - 一个吃的男人，而不是喝两勺早餐。从那夜开始，我写下了一支半铅笔，在我的前照灯的光线下，我每天都记得了什么。小径从未短暂过我的细节。
火吸引了我 - 无论是在岩石圈内挥手还是闪耀着天空。在Wesser Bald Fire Tower，我看着太阳落在尼哈拉森林里。火颜色明亮地穿过山脉，然后像天空变暗和充满明星一样暗淡篝火余烬。我的灵魂凝视着我的眼睛，看到了永恒。
Sunrise at Dragon's Tooth, Appalachian Trail in Virginia
Another time, at sunrise, I sat on a boulder with four early risers at Dragon’s Tooth. The orange glow touched our faces and awed us to silence. In those moments, looking to the horizon or circled around a campfire, we stoked a warm friendship.
Thru-hikers staying up past "hiker midnight" in Virginia
Hikers typically went to sleep by 9:00 p.m., hiker midnight. If a fire was going, conversations sometimes stayed lively past 10:00 p.m. I stumbled onto a bachelor party that carried on past 1:00 a.m. Nights were not always quiet when hikers went to sleep. Campers could snore ferociously. I heard them snoring in tents thirty feet from mine. In shelters, three or four people sometimes snored synchronously. And then there were owls, which typically hooted early in the night. Once, I heard coyotes yapping far off in the dark. Near creeks or ponds, frogs pulsed the nights with chirps, peeps, and bellows.
I had a nice chat with "Big Country" on this log on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia.
I usually hiked alone, but I talked to people every day. In a quick reading of body language, I knew if a person coming down the trail wanted to chat. It didn’t matter if the person was young or old, male or female—the trail lifts the usual barriers that keep us from talking to each other in supermarkets and subway trains. Hikers told great stories: like the young man who was bitten by a rattlesnake while crossing a road and sought help from the resident snake expert at Lowe’s Home Improvement store, or Yogi the Kitten, who was rescued along a highway and carried all the way to Maine, or the bear-and-broccoli-soup incident.
Yogi the thru-hiking kitten on the trail in Virginia
At road crossings and hostels, trail angels appeared. They offered rides, cheeseburgers, and beds with clean sheets. Some people wielded pickaxes and shovels—the volunteers who build and maintain every inch of trail. How did they move and position those rock slabs into staircases? Why did they route the last mile over what resembled a blast zone?
Members of the Tidewater Appalachian Trail Club doing trail maintenance in Virginia
Rocks. I mention them over two hundred times—not counting boulders. Tectonically shaped into points, deposited liberally where your feet must land, rocks are cold hard facts. When I groaned about sore feet one night, a seasoned thru-hiker quipped, “No pain, no rain, no Maine.” His lack of sympathy reminded me of my father, who once said that eating horseradish would put hair on my chest—so I ate it. My sisters declined. Rain blesses the pages slightly less than two hundred times—from drizzle to downpour. I heard thunder more times than I saw lightning, but two close strikes were enough.
雾在页面五十次。它模糊的d views but mysteriously—if you believe in connecting dots—led to unforeseen destiny…
Kendra on Bald Mountain
在第一次旅行的第十四天，沿着田纳西州 - 北卡罗来纳线，雾围绕了5,516英尺的秃头山。在峰会上，我看到背包客站在轮廓上的驼背形状反对坚固的灰色背景。她的名字是纳什维尔的肯德拉。对比非常有趣，我们互相拍摄了照片。肯德拉说她在完成徒步旅行时会给我发电子邮件，所以我们可以交换照片。两周后，电子邮件来了。
她说她在Facebook上发布我的照片。我没有interest in social media, but, curious to see the photo, I signed up. Within days, I reconnected with all my friends from high school. Meanwhile, a Facebook user in Switzerland was looking for possible relatives in the United States who had the same last name as hers. She found some: a family of kids from my high school, distant relatives of hers, whom I had reconnected with after thirty-five years. Nine months after meeting Kendra in the fog, I received a message through Facebook that said, “Hello. Your activities sound great. I live in the middle of the nature far away in Switzerland. Have a nice day. Dominique.” I married Dominique two years later and moved to Switzerland. Looking up at Matterhorn or down from Säntis, I was mesmerized by the snowy mountains. But it was the woman who moved me.
The first two hikes of the journal occurred before marriage. I started with a twenty-eight-day hike through Tennessee and North Carolina, over Hump and Little Hump Mountains, and through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The next hike was twenty-nine days through Southern Virginia, over the ridgetops of Tinker Cliffs, Angels Rest, McAfee Knob, and Dragon’s Tooth.
婚后，我通过我的佐治亚州的家庭州，独自徒步旅行。Dominique和我一起徒步旅行在雪南国家公园。她喜欢雾 - “完美的思考天气”。接下来是北卡罗来纳州的尼哈拉森林，然后是雪兰湾国家公园的其他一半与多米尼克。最后的徒步旅行带我从雪兰多到哈珀·渡轮，西弗吉尼亚州的阿巴拉契亚径的“心理中途”。
Scarlet Tanager just above me on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia
我没有看到格鲁吉亚和西弗吉尼亚州之间的所有风景。当我向内转身时，森林才能在数英里处。我想到了家庭。我是个好父亲吗？一个好儿子？一个好丈夫？我想到了工作和金钱，即使我试过不去。我想到了上帝和灵魂。身体提示占据了我的数英里：我累了，饥饿，口渴吗？膝盖疼痛是什么？ Is that a blister forming on my heel? Thoughts persisted about those nuisances—time and distance: Will I reach the shelter before dark? How far to the next water source? Am I hiking too slowly? Will I hike seventeen miles today? What day is today? Then a deer would bolt, or a bird would whistle—and jolt me back to nature.
This deer nonchalantly stepped off the trail and went around me, late afternoon, Appalachian Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina
Deer didn’t always run away, especially in the national parks. I was as happy to chat with them as with people, and their twitching ears almost suggested that they understood me. Bears didn’t always run away either, but none ran toward me. I saw only a few but often sensed their presence, like a musky odor lingering on a sunny slope or the irrefutable evidence—a pile of scat in the middle of the trail. Bears occasionally visited me in dreams when I slept alone under a tarp, and they occupied my thoughts when I hiked in the dark.
As for the other critters, read on. They are waiting on the Appalachian Trail.
买任何书（Recipes for Adventure,The Menu Planning & Food Drying Workbook, or行动指南：脱水31餐）下载阿巴拉契亚径1001英里for free.
Low Gap, TN to Nantahala Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC, 315 miles, Southbound, 28 days.
"Reading 1001 Miles on the Appalachian Trail makes me want to do something adventurous."- 艾琳
"Received your book yesterday and just finished. Congratulations on such a wonderfully written book. It is a beautiful love story between you, Dominique, and nature."- Annette
"I really enjoyed reading about your adventures on the Appalachian Trail and reading your recipes and techniques for dehydrating backpacking meals. My husband and I have RV and tent camped all our lives and have decided to take up backpacking as a way to grow closer and challenge ourselves. I feel like I know you personally after reading about your and Dominique's hikes and I just wanted to thank you for putting all of this really helpful information out there for new-comers to enjoy and learn from."-Emily
View 500+ more photos of the Appalachian Trail from Georgia through West Virginia:
"No matter the span of time or distance you tackle, the Appalachian Trail can change your life. It happens all the time. It happened to me."- Chef Glenn.